Bespoke Tailoring

Surgeon's Cuffs: What Working Buttonholes Really Say
Why a functioning cuff marks a bespoke or made-to-measure jacket, when to leave one undone, and whether it is worth paying for.

The Double-Breasted Suit: How It Builds a Wider, Harder Line
Why a double-breasted jacket squares the shoulders, which button stance suits which build, and the one rule about keeping it closed.